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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.